The library
Volume XIII

Field to Freezer

A recording: episode 5 of Listen, the library read aloud

Everything between the shot and the freezer: the gralloch, the cooling, the hang, the skin, the break-down and the esky home.

  •  
  • 7 chapters
  • Silent Grove
An engraving of a skinned carcass hanging from a gambrel in a slatted timber shed, with a cloth over a rail and a knife and steel on the bench
I
After the shot

The first ten minutes

The shot ends the hunt and starts the job. What you do in the next hour decides whether the meat comes out clean, mild and tender, or turns into something you quietly feed to the dog. None of it is hard. Most of it is doing the right things in the right order, without rushing and without dawdling.

Wait and watch first. A deer that drops can still be alive, and a kicking hind leg with a sharp hoof on the end will open your shin to the bone. Walk in from behind its back, away from the legs and the antlers, with the rifle still loaded in case it needs a second shot.

Then make sure. Watch the chest for breathing. Look at the eye, which on a dead animal stays open, glazed and still. Touch the surface of the eye with the end of a stick: no blink, no flicker, and it's dead. Only then unload, with the muzzle pointed somewhere safe. That's the order the NSW Hunter Education Handbook teaches, and it's the one we use.

Come in from behind the back Touch the eye no blink means dead Kick zone
Fig. 1Walk in from the spine side, where the legs can't reach you, and check the eye before you touch anything else.

Photos, with some respect

Take your photos now, before the gralloch, while the animal still looks like itself. Tuck the tongue in. Wipe the blood off the nose and the wound. Fold the legs under so it lies naturally, and sit or kneel behind it, never on it. Keep the rifle out of the frame or pointed somewhere safe.

Plenty of people who weren't there will see those photos. They should show that you respected the animal, because you should have. Then be quick about it. In hot sun an intact carcass can start to spoil inside fifteen minutes, sooner if the gut was hit. At 10°C or below you have about an hour (The Deer Initiative). A few photos, then the knife.

What's in your pocket

  • A sharp knife, and a steel or a second knifeA blunt knife needs force, and force is how knives slip into the gut, or into you.
  • Two or three pairs of glovesChange them after the bung, and whenever they're filthy.
  • Cable ties or stringFor the gullet and the bung.
  • Paper towel or a clean clothFor wiping, never scrubbing.
  • Hand sanitiser and clean drinking waterNever creek or dam water anywhere near the meat.
  • Clean bags for the heart and liverInto the shade, then cold.
  • Game bags or a clean tarpBreathable cloth. Plastic traps heat.
  • A head torch and spare batteriesMost of this weekend's work starts after dark.
Two hunters skinning a pale fallow at night under a head torch
Plate IHead torches on. On this weekend most of the knife work starts after dark.

Lore

Gralloch is Scots, from the Scottish Gaelic grealach, the entrails. It names both the guts of a deer and the job of taking them out, and it's pronounced with the soft Scottish ch at the end, as in loch.

II
Field dressing

The gralloch

To gralloch a deer is to take out everything in its body cavity, in one piece, without opening the stomach, the bowel or the bladder. It's the single most important job in this book. Done quickly and cleanly, it gets the heat out and keeps the gut away from the meat. Done badly, it smears the inside of the carcass with the contents of a paunch, and no amount of cooking fixes that.

Two rules cover most of it. Keep the knife sharp and the blade shallow, so it only ever cuts what you mean it to. And wear gloves, changing them when they get dirty, because some of what lives in a deer can live in you. The steps below follow the Victorian Government's game meat guide, checked against the UK's Deer Initiative.

Belly upwedged, gloves on Hind legsspread ridged windpipe, smooth gullet: tie it The gulletseparate it, tie it off The bungring it, free it,tie it, new gloves two fingers, blade edge up Breastboneto pelvisinside out, shallow The bladderpinch it, lift itout whole Roll it outthe side, by hand,never yank Chest lastcut the diaphragm,pull the pluck Prop it openwipe, don't wash,keep it dry

Work through the steps with the slider or the arrows. The drawing is a deer on its back seen from above, head at the top, and each step lights up what you're cutting.

The order matters more than the speed. The gullet and the bung are tied before the belly is opened, so nothing can leak out either end. The bladder comes out before the gut, so it can't burst under the weight of the paunch. And the chest comes last: you cut through the diaphragm and draw out the pluck, because that's where the blood has pooled.

If it was gut-shot

Gralloch it straight away. The NSW Hunter Education Handbook is blunt: any part of the carcass that touches gut contents should not be eaten. Cut it away generously, then change gloves and clean the knife before you touch clean meat again.

The no-gut method

There's a second way. Leave the cavity closed, skin one side, lift off the shoulder, haunch and backstrap, roll it and repeat, then reach in behind the last rib for the tenderloins. The NSW handbook calls the pieces quarters. It's how meat comes off animals that fall a long way from a vehicle, which on this weekend they mostly don't.

Four things people get wrong

III
Inspection

Read the insides

Nobody inspects a wild deer for you. In an abattoir a meat inspector looks at every carcass. In the paddock that job is yours, and the gralloch is when you do it, because the organs are in your hands anyway. You are looking for one thing, really: anything that doesn't look like a healthy animal. The good news, as The Deer Initiative puts it, is that the great majority of deer carcasses are healthy and become food.

Start before the shot. A deer that was staggering, circling, drooling or strangely tame should not be eaten, whatever its insides look like. Then look at the outside: condition along the spine, sores, swellings, abscesses, and any blisters in the mouth or around the feet. Blisters are a phone call to the Emergency Animal Disease Watch Hotline on 1800 675 888, because they can be the first sign of a disease Australia doesn't have. Inside, you're learning what a healthy liver, heart and set of glands look like, so that a liver riddled with fluke or a gland full of pus jumps out at you.

Tap an organ

Tap any organ in the drawing

Lungs Heart Liver Spleen Kidneys Paunch Gut
Fig. 2What comes out, laid on a game bag. The small beads are lymph nodes: look at them, don't cut them.

Trim it, bin the part, or bin the lot

What you findWhat to do
Bloodshot meat around the woundCut it out, wide. Lead and copper fragments travel beyond what you can see, so don't feed the off-cuts to the dogs.
Hair, dirt or gut on the meatCut it back to clean meat. Don't wash it.
Fluke, spots or cysts in one organBin that organ. If the rest looks normal, keep going.
One small abscess with a visible causeCut it out with a wide margin and keep looking.
Swollen nodes or abscesses all throughDon't eat it. That's disease, not a local problem.
Hot, swollen or pus-filled jointsDon't eat it. Septic joints mean infection in the blood.
Severe emaciation, fever signs, a sour or "sweated" carcassDon't eat it.
Strange behaviour before the shotDon't eat it, and report it.
Found dead, or bloody discharge from nose or anusDon't touch it. Possible anthrax: call 1800 675 888.

TableAfter The Deer Initiative's carcass inspection guide and the Victorian Government's game meat guide.

What a deer can give you

A zoonosis is a disease that crosses from animals to people. Gloves, covered cuts and a clean knife stop most of them. These are the ones that matter in New South Wales, for deer, roos and the odd pig.

Coxiella burnetii

Q fever

A bacterial infection that can lay you out for weeks, and leave some people unwell for years. Cattle, sheep and goats carry it, and so do kangaroos and wallabies. You catch it by breathing dust or droplets from birth fluids, urine or dung, or through broken skin while butchering. NSW Health lists animal shooters and hunters as an at-risk group.

There's a vaccine, Q-VAX, for people 15 and over, but you need a skin test and a blood test first to make sure you haven't already had it. That takes time, so if you're going to make a habit of this, talk to your GP well before the trip. Gloves, covered cuts, washed hands and a P2 mask for dusty work all help.

Lore

Look for the gall bladder on a deer's liver and you won't find one. Cattle, sheep and goats all have that little green bag. Deer don't have a gall bladder at all (The Deer Initiative), which is one less thing to burst on a good liver.

IV
Cooling

Get the heat out

On this weekend most animals are taken from the back of the ute, so the carry is short. Lift it onto the tray with two people, cavity propped open, and never pile warm carcasses on top of each other: a stack holds heat like a compost heap. Keep the tray clear of fuel and chemicals, and keep any head or cape away from the meat.

If you do have to drag one, drag it by the front legs or the antlers, head first, so the hair lies flat and the open cavity stays out of the dirt. Too far or too heavy, and it comes out in pieces: the four legs, both backstraps and both tenderloins, each in a game bag, carried in the shade.

Then the real enemy. Food bacteria grow fastest between 5 and 60°C, the danger zone, and some double every twenty minutes in it (Penn State Extension). A fallow runs at about 38 to 39°C right through. Your job for the next day is to get that heat out of the deepest muscle on the animal, which is the haunch, by the hip.

The benchmark comes from the commercial game trade. NSW Food Authority's rules for licensed harvesters want a carcass in a chiller within two hours of the kill, or two hours after sunrise for a night kill, and its deep muscle down to 7°C within 24 hours of going in. The NSW Hunter Education Handbook gives hunters the same target: 7°C or less within 24 hours. Nobody inspects your weekend, but that's the number to beat.

39°CA fallow's body heat
5–60°CThe danger zone
7°CDeep muscle, within 24 hours
8°CTenterfield's average October low

Here's the trap. A carcass can never get colder than the air around it, and Tenterfield's long-term average October minimum is 8°C, reached around dawn, before the day climbs back past 20 (Bureau of Meteorology). Night air on its own will never get a deer to 7°C. It buys you time. The cool room finishes the job. Play with the night below and watch what each choice does.

39°CDeep haunch
39°CBackstrap
14°CShed air
Danger zone, 5 to 60°C too cold, too soon 7°C 010203040 9pm3am9am3pm9pm °C, hours after a 9 pm shot
Deep haunchBackstrapAir
+24 h
The skin
The carcass
The cool room
The night

Fig. 3A model of a mid-size fallow, tuned to commercial chilling times, not a thermometer. A big buck's haunch cools slower, a small doe's faster. Night air follows Tenterfield's October averages.

What the model is telling you

  1. The skin is a blanket

    The NSW Hunter Education Handbook says it straight: the hide insulates, and taking it off while the carcass is warm speeds cooling. That's why, on this weekend, whatever's down is skinned and hung before anyone sleeps.

  2. Air has to get all the way round

    Lying on a tray or the ground, one whole side of the carcass is pressed against something that holds heat. Hung up, with the cavity propped open and nothing touching, it cools from every side.

  3. The night only gets you halfway

    An 8°C dawn can't make a 7°C haunch, and the next afternoon warms everything back up. The cool room is what gets you over the line.

  4. Even fridges are slow

    A commercial chiller with fans still takes about 12 to 22 hours to get the deepest muscle of a lamb carcass, roughly fallow-sized, down to 7°C (European Food Safety Authority, 2026). There are no shortcuts for the haunch.

Too cold, too soon

There is such a thing as chilling too hard, too early. In the first hours after death a muscle still has energy to contract. Chill it hard before rigor sets and it contracts and locks short and tough: cold shortening. Australian meat science guidance aims to keep muscle above about 12°C for the first ten hours, and says shortening is worst when rigor happens between 0 and 10°C (MLA and CSIRO).

The thin cuts suffer first, and the backstrap is the thin cut you care about most. So don't drop a hot backstrap into ice slurry or a freezer. On a frosty night, leave the skin on or the quarters in game bags until morning. You'll still make 7°C inside 24 hours.

On a warm day

Safety wins over tenderness. Get it into shade, skin off, cavity open, and into the cool room as soon as you can. When the air is above 5°C, Penn State's trick is sealed bags of ice tied into the cavity. Use breathable game bags, never plastic, which traps heat.

Lore

Two degrees is a long way in a cool room. CSIRO's chilling work for the meat industry found meat keeps about half as long at 4°C as it does at 2°C. Salmonella and E. coli barely grow below about 8°C, but the bacteria that spoil meat keep working right down to freezing.

V
Ageing

Let it hang

Hanging isn't storage. It's when the meat turns from tough to tender, and it happens by itself if you keep it cold, keep it dry and leave it alone.

In the hours after death the muscles run out of energy and lock solid. That's rigor, and meat is at its toughest around a day after the kill. Then enzymes in the meat itself, chiefly the calpains, start cutting the proteins that hold the muscle fibres together, and it softens (NDSU Extension). The colder the room, the slower they work.

Here's the good news for fallow. Venison is naturally tender, and a review by Wiklund and colleagues found fallow rarely needs more than one to three days of ageing. Red deer gain a bit more from longer. Shot on Friday or Saturday night, hung, then into the cool room and broken down on Sunday: that's one to two days, right in the window a young fallow needs.

this weekend 0123571014 days on the hook, at about 1 to 3°C Tenderness most of it is done by day three

When it goes wrong

i

Too warm

Above about 4°C, ageing turns into spoiling: slime, a sour smell and a green tinge. Anything you can't hold that cold, break down and get into the fridge instead of hanging it.

ii

Too wet

A washed or dripping carcass grows slime and mould. Hang it dry, spaced so air moves between carcasses, never touching.

iii

Bone sour

Deep in a thick haunch, by the hip, meat that cooled too slowly turns sour against the bone. It smells of it when you open the joint. Bin it.

iv

The wrong carcass

Don't age a gut-shot, dirty or warm-handled carcass, or an animal that ran hard. Stressed meat is dark and sticky and spoils sooner (Wiklund). Break it down and use it.

How long, by whom

SourceTemperatureTime
Wiklund et al.Cold1 to 3 days for fallow
Penn StateBelow 4°C5 to 7 days
BASC (UK)7°C or colderAbout 10 days
NDSU1 to 3°C, hide on10 to 14 days
This weekendCool room1 to 2 days

Want more at home?

Hung in moving cold air, the outside of a carcass dries to a dark crust, the pellicle, which you trim off. Or age whole pieces in vacuum bags in the fridge, which is called wet ageing and grows no crust. Some cooks keep venison like that for a week or more at about 2°C. It's optional for a young fallow. Never bother ageing mince or sausage meat.

Lore

How you hang it matters. An Australian trial on farmed red and fallow deer found venison from carcasses hung by the pelvis was measurably more tender than from carcasses hung by the Achilles tendon, the usual gambrel method, and consumers preferred it too (Hutchison and colleagues, 2010 and 2014). Hanging by the pelvis keeps the haunch muscles stretched while rigor sets.

VI
The shed

Skin it, break it down

Skinning is mostly fists. The rule that matters is that hair on the meat is the enemy, and every knife stroke from the outside of the hide drags hair onto it. So cut from the inside out, with the blade under the skin and the edge facing up, and use the knife only where the hide is stuck. Keep the peeled hide falling away from the carcass, hair side out, never flopping back against the meat.

The carcass hangs head down from a gambrel, its ends through slits behind the big tendon above each hock. Gravity does half the work.

Gambrelthrough the hocks,behind the tendon Ring and splitbelow the hock, thenup the inside of each leg Peel the hamsand cut throughthe tailbone Fists, not knifepull the hidedown the sides Front legsring at the knee,split, peel Head offat the first jointbehind the skull Trim and wipeany hair, dirtand bloodshot Then hang itspaced, in thecoolest air you have
A hunter skinning a deer hung by its hind legs from a frame under a tree
Plate IIHung by the hind legs, skinned from the top down. Fists do most of it.

Knives

Most of the cuts on a butcher's hands come from the knife sliding off a joint or out of a slippery grip. Cut away from yourself and your mates. Keep the blade sharp so it needs no force. Put the knife down flat when you're using both hands, never in your pocket or your teeth.

Breaking it down

On Sunday everything comes out of the cool room and onto the bench. The first job is to take the carcass apart into its primals, the big pieces, following the natural seams between muscles instead of sawing across them. Tap a number for the order we take them off in. The Cuts takes each one apart.

  1. 1
    TenderloinsTwo small fillets inside the cavity, under the spine. Most butchers take them out first, because they dry and darken quickly on a hanging carcass.
  2. 2
    ShouldersA deer's front leg isn't joined to the ribcage by any joint, only muscle. Lift the leg, cut along the seam against the ribs, and it comes off without a saw.
  3. 3
    BackstrapsThe long loin either side of the spine, from the neck to the hip. Run the knife down along the spine, then around the ribs.
  4. 4
    HaunchesThe hind legs. Cut in along the pelvis to the ball-and-socket joint at the hip, pop it, and the haunch is free.
  5. 5
    NeckOff at the shoulders. Whole on the bone for a slow braise, or boned for mince.
  6. 6
    Ribs and flankRibs whole on the bandsaw, or boned with the flank for mince.
  7. 7
    ShanksThe lower legs, cut off at the knee and hock joints. The best braise on the animal.
Fig. 4The primals, drawn on the live animal so you can see where they sit. The tenderloin, dashed, lies inside.
Several fallow deer laid out on a shed floor at night with carcasses hanging behind
Plate IIIA good night, waiting its turn on the gambrel. The longer the queue, the faster you need to work.
VII
The esky

Bag it, ice it, take it home

Everything worth keeping gets sealed. A vacuum sealer, still called a cryovac after the brand, pulls the air out and heat-seals the bag. No air means no freezer burn and no drying, and the meat keeps for far longer. We've got one machine and a second halves the Sunday queue, so bring yours if you own one.

Cut, seal and label as you go, while everything's cold. Keep the top of the bag clean and dry, because blood in the seal means it leaks. Pack in meal sizes, laid flat, so they freeze fast and thaw evenly. Then write on every bag: the cut, the date and the animal. In four months you won't remember which bag held the backstrap.

The esky, before you drive

  • Meat cold when it goes inStraight from the cool room or the fridge, never warm.
  • Every piece sealed or baggedDry meat stays clean. Wet meat in melt water doesn't.
  • Ice under the meat, and over itBagged ice, ice bricks or frozen bottles.
  • Flat packs in layers, gaps filledAir pockets warm up first.
  • Heads, capes and hides kept outThey travel separately, away from the meat.
  • Lid shut, esky in the shadeIn the cab beats the tray in the sun.
  • Melt water drained at every stopMeat sits on ice, never in water.
  • Freezer cleared at home before you leaveIt all goes in the night you get back.
Lid shut Ice on the bottom Drain the melt
Fig. 5Ice under the meat and over it, packs flat, no air pockets, melt water out the drain.

The meat goes home chilled, not frozen, and that's fine. Cold meat on plenty of ice, in a shut esky out of the sun, should stay below 5°C for the drive home. Ice on top matters as much as ice underneath, because cold air sinks through the load.

The one thing to watch is the melt water. Meat sitting in a puddle at the bottom of an esky goes grey and soft, and if a bag has leaked it's sitting in its own juice. Drain it every time you stop, as the Victorian game meat guide says, or sit the meat on frozen bottles that can't melt into a pool.

At home, it all goes into the freezer that night, at -18°C or colder, in single flat layers so it freezes fast, then stacked once it's hard. Properly handled game keeps up to about a year frozen (Penn State), longer vacuum sealed. Freezer burn hurts the quality, not the safety. Thaw it in the fridge, never on the bench or in a sink of water (Food Safety Information Council).

How much is in it?

Less than people think. Once the gut, skin, head, feet and bone are gone, a fallow gives you roughly 35 to 40% of its live weight as meat you can bag, less if the shot smashed a shoulder or a buck is run thin after the rut. Slide the live weight and see what comes home.

Live weight
45kg
23–27kgCarcass, skinned and gutted, head and feet off (52 to 60%)
16–18kgMeat you'll bag (35 to 40%)
34Half-kilo packs, give or take

Carcass figures from farmed and wild fallow studies in Australia, Poland and South Africa. A gut shot, a smashed shoulder or a buck run thin by the rut takes it lower.

Lore

Venison once meant the meat of any big game, boar as well as deer. The word came into English about 1300, through Old French, from the Latin venatio, the hunt. Only later did it narrow down to deer.